A dream deferred

Back in June, I was on my way to Spain and Morocco when life literally tripped me up. I broke my leg on the plane, my dreams of adventure halted in their tracks. Five months of surgeries, immobility, and painful rehabilitation followed, but I never let go of that dream. With the support of my amazing community, I rescheduled my trip for December. It was a risk, stairs were still a challenge, and I walked slowly but I was determined to experience the magic of Morocco. Besides, Mary Beth and I had planned out an amazing adventure and I wanted to get back out in the world and experience it! And let me tell you, despite some challenges, it was worth every single step.

Marrakech: A vibrant welcome

Our adventure began in Marrakech, a city alive with color, sound, and life. A private tour introduced us to its wonders, from the opulent Bahia Palace to the bustling souks. Our guide, Mbarek, helped us navigate the maze of markets, offering insights into Moroccan herbs, spices, and traditions.

The souks were an explosion of sensory experiences: the bright colors of handmade textiles, the heady aroma of freshly ground spices like cumin and turmeric, and the rhythmic hammering of artisans shaping copper. I even earned the compliment, “You haggle like a Berber woman!” after driving a hard bargain for a pair of hammered brass earrings.

One highlight was a visit to a 500-year-old Hammam, where we experienced a traditional Moroccan bathing ritual. It was not the relaxing spa day I imagined but an intense, grounding experience that left us refreshed in a way we didn’t expect.

Marrakech introduced us to Moroccan hospitality and culture with warmth and vibrancy. It was the perfect place to begin our journey.

The Sahara and the ancient city of Ait Ben Haddou

After leaving Marrakech, we embarked on a long journey toward the Sahara Desert, with a stop at the ancient city of Ait Ben Haddou. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a stunning maze of kasbahs and clay buildings that date back to the 11th century. It has served as a backdrop for countless films and TV shows, including Game of Thrones and Gladiator.

Ait Ben Haddou also offered a deeper understanding of Morocco’s cultural heritage. Here, we learned about the Amazigh people, who are more commonly known outside of Morocco as “Berbers.” The term “Berber” comes from the Greek word “barbaros,” meaning “barbarian,” but the Amazigh people prefer their own term, which means “free people” or “noble people.” We learned that their language, Tamazight, did not have a written form until the 20th century when the script was revived. It looks nothing like Arabic or Roman languages, but is a delightful script of symbols and shapes. Despite centuries of external influence, the Amazigh have maintained their identity. They’re beautiful, warm, and welcoming people and we really enjoyed everyone we met.

From Ait Ben Haddou, we continued by bus to the Sahara Desert. There, we celebrated New Year’s Eve in the most magical way imaginable. We rode camels into the dunes, where the golden sands stretched endlessly beneath the brilliant clear blue sky. That night, Mary Beth and I lay flat in the cool sand, staring up at a canopy of stars so bright and clear it felt like we could reach out and touch them.

A bonfire roared nearby, and the sounds of laughter and music filled the air. Cake and fireworks marked the turning of the year, but it was the stillness of the desert that’s stuck in my mind. The Sahara is timeless, vast, and humbling. I would have liked an opportunity to explore deeper into the desert but we didn’t realize we’d be tenting just on the edge when we booked our stay. I guess there will have to be a next time!

The djellaba, the coziest souvenir

One of my favorite purchases from the trip was a djellaba, a traditional Moroccan robe with long sleeves and a pointed hood. Originally designed for both function and fashion, djellabas have been worn for centuries by men and women across Morocco. Made for the country’s diverse climates, they are lightweight enough for summer heat yet warm enough for chilly desert nights.

Mary Beth and I each bought a djellaba during our stop at Ait Ben Haddou, paying about $105 each. While that felt pricey at first, the moment we tried them on, we knew they were worth every penny. Made of high-quality cashmere, they were incredibly soft, comfortable, and warm.

The djellabas quickly became our go-to outfits for the rest of the trip, especially in the desert. Their cozy hoods kept the chill at bay during cold Moroccan nights, and the breathable fabric worked well for layering during the day. But they weren’t just practical, they were clearly stylish, too. Everywhere we went, locals complimented us on them, often stopping to say how beautiful and Moroccan we looked!

These djellabas became more than just souvenirs; they were a reminder of Morocco’s craftsmanship and timeless design. They’re wearable memories of an unforgettable trip. If you’re visiting Morocco, I highly recommend splurging on one!

Fes: The city of painful disappointments

Our arrival in Fes was a sharp contrast to the magic of the Sahara. We had high hopes, but the city quickly proved to be a challenge.

We hired a private guide to explore the Medina and its famous leather tanneries, but instead, we were shuttled from one aggressive shop to another. Salespeople were pushy, and their manipulative tactics made the experience exhausting. Mary Beth was pressured into buying a flawed leather jacket, which required a heated argument to return. I overpaid for a camel leather bag but decided to keep it and only later realized that it was dyed cheaply and the colored leather stains anything it comes into contact with.

Even a visit to a hammam turned into a disaster. What was meant to be a deep tissue massage left my good leg swollen and aching for the rest of the trip after the massage lady (not a pro!!) yanked my leg so sharply and quickly that I screamed out in pain. I’m still a little angry and regretful about this shoddy experience. The massage was cheap and the pain in my knee is lingering and really hindered my walking for the rest of the trip and beyond.

The chaos even extended to the Fes airport at the end of our trip, where overcrowding, zero food options, and delays made for a frustrating departure. Our guide in Chefchouen told us that even Moroccans dislike Fes, describing its residents as shady and “snitches.” I’m not glad to have experienced it and I wouldn’t recommend Fes to anyone.

Chefchouen: The blue jewel of my dreams

Chefchouen is the blue city nestled in the Rif Mountains, and it was everything Fes was not, tranquil, welcoming, and magical. The city’s iconic blue-painted walls seemed to glow in the mountain light, creating an atmosphere of peace and serenity.

The cultural rebellion here was fascinating. While most Moroccans speak French as a second language due to colonial history (and they still have to learn it in school), the people of Chefchouen prefer Arabic and Spanish. They understand French, but avoid speaking it. Instead, their Spanish is an enchanting mix of Arabic and broken Spanish with a few French words thrown into the mix, reflecting the people’s unique identity.

We spent our days wandering the winding streets, enjoying mountain views, and interacting with the friendly locals. A highlight was a cooking class in the mountains, where we prepared traditional tagines over open flames. The fresh air, good company, and extraordinary views made it an unforgettable experience.

We also visited the Akchour cascades, a series of waterfalls surrounded by lush greenery. The hike was challenging with my healing leg, but the beauty of the cascades, and the delicious tagine we enjoyed riverside made it worth the effort.

What I would do differently next time (and some tips for future travelers)

Traveling in Morocco was an unforgettable experience, but with every trip comes lessons learned. If I were to do it again, here’s how I’d approach it differently:

1. Take Flights Between Major Cities

Morocco is vast, and the distances between cities are significant. Long bus rides, while cost-effective, were uncomfortable (such small seats!!), crowded, and exhausting. Next time, I’d opt for flights between key cities to save time and energy whenever possible.

2. Invest in Private Transfers

When ground travel is necessary (such as to get to the Sahara), I’d spend the extra money on private transfers instead of cramped buses with subpar seats. Comfort is worth it, especially for long drives through the mountains. Plus you get more personalized attention from the driver, such as choosing where you get to stop for lunch and all the extra stops you want.

3. Skip Fes, Including Its Airport

Fes was a tough experience, from the aggressive sales tactics, the shady tour guide, to the chaotic airport with limited food options. Knowing what I know now, I’d avoid Fes altogether. The tanneries are just not worth it!

4. Plan Around Sanitation and Hygiene

Reused butter plates, communal bread baskets, and unsealed product samples were common in many places. I’d pack extra hand sanitizer, avoid communal dishes, and stick to freshly cooked food whenever possible. Mary Beth and I both got minor colds and were grateful for the cheap and well-stocked pharmacies.

5. Be Cautious with Massages and Spas

I learned the hard way that Moroccan massages can be hit-or-miss. I highly doubt the woman who massaged me was professionally trained. After my painful experience in Fes, I’d be wary of massages and research any spas you want to go to carefully beforehand. Online reviews are not an adequate source for research!

6. Reconsider Group Tours

Group tours often offer the lowest quality options for food, accommodations, and transportation. Personally, I’d prioritize private tours or independent travel instead to avoid being treated like tourist cattle.

7. Haggle Aggressively

Haggling is a must in Morocco, especially in the markets. Ho into negotiations with confidence and be prepared to walk away when needed. Apparently vendors expect and respect this approach. And if you decide to go to Fes, be prepared to stand your ground because they are VERY aggressive and manipulative sales people!

8. Pack Layers

The desert gets surprisingly cold at night, and buying a traditional djellaba was one of the best investments I made. It’s the local garb for a reason! I also brought a couple of sweaters and a rain jacket and used them all frequently.

9. Verify What You’re Told

Especially in Fes, I learned that not everything you’re told can be trusted. Next time, I’d double-check guides’ claims, confirm itineraries, and rely on verified reviews when booking experiences. And when being sold something, I wouldn’t take it at their word that you’re getting what they show you.

10. Leave Room for Rest and Spontaneity

Our itinerary in Chefchouen had fewer planned activities, which allowed us to explore at our own pace and enjoy spontaneous moments like the mountain and cascade hike. Our 10 day trip was mostly hectic so having three full days to relax at the end was meaningful.

A Journey of Resilience

Traveling in Morocco was a journey of strength, both my own and the kind found in the country’s people. From the ancient resilience of the Amazigh to the quiet hope whispered by the Sahara winds, this adventure was one I’ll always remember.

I came to Morocco with a mended-but-still-painful leg and an open heart, and I left full of memories, lessons, and stories. To anyone considering a trip here, I say go! Embrace the beauty and let this incredible country teach you something new about yourself.

Here’s to more adventures and those moments that make life extraordinary.